Pour over brewing is one of the most common and simple, yet
often misunderstood brewing techniques. At its essence, pour over brewing is as
simple as it sounds. Hot water is poured over, then runs through, coffee
grounds. And that is where the simplicity ends.
Every coffee drinker has had pour over coffee. The most
common form is from a home or commercial coffee machine. From your good ol’ Mr.
Coffee machine to a large commercial BUNN brewer, machines typically heat
water, then pour it over a basket or cone filled with ground coffee. The idea
is that the machine will take all of the guesswork out of brewing, and
unfortunately, it often replaces guesses with bad decisions. To explore that
statement, and to understand where heavenly coffee can come from, let’s review
some of the variables in pour over coffee brewing.
Water – Water is
90+ percent of a cup of coffee, and is the only solvent used to extract and
suspend dissolvable solutes in coffee grounds. In other words, take your water
seriously. There are plenty of articles describing the ideal PH, total
dissolved solids, and mineral make-up of the perfect brewing water. For the
majority of coffee lovers, however, the test is simple: Would you enjoy
drinking a glass of your brewing water? If you are lucky enough to have great
tasting tap water, use it! If you have to buy filtered or purified water, use
that. If you have a reverse osmosis system, that will work well. Poor tasting
tap water and deionized water are the biggest categories of water to avoid.
Once your source is declared coffee appropriate, the right
temperature is vital. Many home coffee brewers simply do not get water close to
boiling, which is needed to properly extract coffee goodness. If that is the
case with your coffee machine, ditch it, take it to the Goodwill, or let it
collect dust in your garage if you have issues with letting go. A manual pour
over will allow you to bring water all the way up to a boil, allow it to cool
15-30 seconds, then brew properly. It can be just that simple.
Coffee – Of
course, the coffee has to be high quality and fresh to obtain a great product,
but that is not enough. The grind is of great importance. The single most
important equipment purchase a coffee lover can make is a high quality,
consistent grinder. When water pours over and through coffee grinds, smaller
grinds will be more completely extracted compared to larger grinds. In extreme
cases, such as a whirly-blade cheapo grinder, the larger bits will be
under-extracted, while the smaller bits will be over extracted, obtaining the
worst of both worlds. Definitely not yum.
Pour over coffee requires grinds that are a bit smaller than
press pot coffee, and certainly larger than espresso grind. The grind size will
also impact brew time, so getting it right is important, and can take some
adjustment.
Paper or Plastic?
– Or more accurately, paper, metal, or cloth? Pour over coffee has long been
brewed in South and Central America using a cloth pour over filter on a metal
hoop, often called a coffee sock. In 1908, German housewife Melitta Benz
invented a coffee filter which evolved into the modern cone coffee filter. Cone
filters have continued to evolve, with several brands claiming superiority. Recently,
Hario and Chemex have been increasing in popularity with the specialty coffee
crowd, and for good reason: They both can produce beautiful cups of coffee.
The most recent addition to the high-end filter materials is
stainless steel with tiny laser etched holes, such as the Coava Kone. These
work exactly like the cloth and paper filters, with the difference of absorbing
none of the natural coffee oils. This leads to a cup with much more body, and
certainly a small amount of sediment. I am usually willing to deal with a
little sludge in the bottom of my cup, so I almost exclusively reach for my
metal Kone when making pour over coffee these days.
Filter Shape – Finally,
filter shape will impact your pour over coffee. Many coffee machines (think Mr.
Coffee or a Starbucks brewed coffee machine) have a flat-bottomed basket, while
the filter paper has fluted sides. The brewed coffee exits the filter basket
though a single hole at the bottom. This configuration typically requires a
larger grind size because the water takes a comparatively long time to go
through the grinds and exit the basket. Basket coffee makers typically fill
with water, as opposed to running through quickly. Many bad batches of coffee
have been brewed this way because of coffee that is too finely ground, leading
to over-extraction and a sour cup.
As mentioned earlier, the Melitta filter is also popular,
and is used in many home coffee machines. The filter paper is thicker than the
flat-bottomed filter, and looks like a squashed cone with the tip cut off. The
grounds can be a bit finer than what you would use for a flat-bottomed filter
because the flow rate is a higher. If the grinds are too small, the water will
rush past most of the coffee, leading to an under-extracted, weak cup. If the grinds
are too small or there are too many fines from a bad grinder, the filter can
“clog”, leading to an over-extracted and sour cup. Properly brewed, the Melitta
filter produces a fine cup, having the added advantage of being easy to find in
most supermarkets. The GSI Collapsible Outdoors coffee dripper is one of my
primary methods of making coffee for the family when camping or traveling.
More recently, true cone shapes have become more popular.
The Hario, Chemex, and Coava Kone are nearly perfect cones. The grind should
typically be similar to the Melitta grind, but some tweaking may be needed to
keep the brew time in the three minute region.
Conclusion – Pour
over brewing can be as simple or complex as you want it to be on any given day.
At its worst, pour over can really miss the mark. At its best, pour over can
produce a wonderful piece of custom made heaven. On average, you will have a
delicious brew with minimal effort.
As the title suggested, we still need to discuss exactly how
pour over coffee is properly brewed. I think I will take a risk here and call
it “Pour Over Brewing – Part Two”.
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